We provide you with a comprehensive care guide for each plant
that you can purchase on our website. We want you to succeed
in growing these fascinating plants. Click the links below to
learn more about each carnivorous plant variety.
Life Cycle of the Venus Flytrap: Year 1: Tiny seedlings emerge, their first two leaves are very
small green petioles that will push the plant out of the seed
and into the growing medium. Next tiny trap leaves will appear,
fully functional despite their size of 1-2mm. The entire plant
will rarely get larger than a penny the first year.
Year 2: After the first dormancy the tiny plants will perform
pretty much just like their larger relatives. Traps will reach
up to 3/8 of an inch, and the plant will grow to an inch or so
across.
Year 3: Getting larger still with traps up to 1/2", now
capable of catching something larger than a soil gnat. Third
year plants will get to be a couple inches tall, and some more
robust plants may even flower.
Year 4-5-6: Plants are now considered mature and will flower
each season, and can self-pollinate to produce seed. These may
also start to split beneath the soil level and can be seperated
and repotted. Leaf cuttings may be taken to achieve more plants.
Year 7-8, beyond: Venus Flytraps will live as long as they are
kept in proper conditions. They will sometimes form monster bulbs
the size of a golf ball or larger, producing traps well over
1" on larger leaves. Sometimes the plants will continue
to split and divide, producing many larger sized bulbs each year.
Additional Care Information For Venus Flytraps:
The most important things to avoid:
1 Excessive heat. Keep indoor and especially domed or terrarium
grown plants out of direct hot sun.
2 Low humidity. Keep well above 50%. If you live in a dry climate,
you will not be able to grow these without a terrarium or humid
enclosure.
3 Keeping your Venus Flytraps too wet for the amount of light
it is getting. Plants that are kept too wet may rot. During
the summer when
kept outdoors, they can be kept very wet. Indoors they will
require less water, but never let them dry out.
4 Excessive handling. As much as they may seem like pets, the
more you handle them the more stressed they will be.
That are showing signs of stress are not necessarily doomed.
They grow from bulbs, which store alot of energy for the plant.
Leaves that have blackened and died are only leaves, and the
plant can grow more as long as the bulb is healthy. The bulb
should be a creamy white color. If the plant is really having
a hard time, un-pot it and check for fungus or any rotting
that may be occuring for various reasons. Dust the bulb with
a fungicide
and re-plant it. Even if most of the rest of the plant has
died back, the bulb can still produce new growth. Some plants
will
die back quite a bit while acclimating to new conditions. Never
give up on a Venus Flytraps plant until you are sure that the
bulb has completely turned to mush, we have seen some amazing
recoveries with these.
Sarracenia X [(Rubra Gulfensis) X (Leucophylla X Flava)] or
A.K.A S.Rubra Gulfensis X MooreiiThis is a very hardy complex hybrid Sarracenia made up of 3 different
upright species. These will grow tall green pitchers with a wavy lid
and light red veining. With the Rubra being an influence, these will
grow Many pitchers each year, compared to pure leucophylla or Flava.
These are quite capable of catching larger bees and wasps, and smaller
insects will not stand a chance. These are nice beginner Sarracenia,
easily surviving dormancy, and ready for division each spring.
These will do best as container plants outdoors in areas with humidity over 50%.
They will appreciate full sun all day, and should be set in a tray
of water at all times during the growing season. They will require
a dormancy period of 3-5 months each year, with temps cold but not
freezing. They will not require as much light during dormancy, and
should be kept dryer as well.
Sarracenia Oreophila X Alata
This is a hybrid of the endangered S.Oreophila, a strong spring
performer, and S.Alata which will start later in the spring,
then will grow pitchers all season long. The result is a very hardy
plant
mostly resembling S.Alata, but much more stout and hardy. These
will produce many more sizeable plant divisions than S.Alata will.
They
will grow tall green pitchers with light veining that may intensify
with stronger light. These are very deadly to the smaller sized
insects such as bees and flies.
These will do best as container plants outdoors in areas with
humidity over 50%. They will appreciate full sun all day, and should
be set in a tray of water at all times during the growing season. They
will require a dormancy period of 3-5 months each year, with temps
cold but not freezing. They will not require as much light during dormancy,
and should be kept dryer as well.
Sarracenia Leucophylla X Willissii
This is a complex hybrid of both taller and more ground hugging
sarracenia species. Sarracenia Leucophylla is capable of growing
very tall green/white topped pitchers well over 3 ft, while the cultivar
Sarracenia Willissi is a mix of shorter species with darker red coloring.
This hybrid results in a tall but slightly curved pitcher, with bright
shades of red which turn to deep plum, and bright pink fenestrations.
These will do best as container plants outdoors in areas with
humidity over 50%. They will appreciate full sun all day, and should
be set in a tray of water at all times during the growing season. They
will require a dormancy period of 3-5 months each year, with temps
cold but not freezing. They will not require as much light during dormancy,
and should be kept dryer as well until signs of new growth appear,
then gradually add more water as the days get longer and warmer.
Sarracenia X "Wrigleyana"
Part of the appeal of growing Sarracenia is the variety of form
within the different species. S.Leucophylla for instance, can be
over 3 feet tall with large white topped open pitchers, while S.Psittacina
is a smaller ground hugging plant with not much room to catch an
insect. Cross the two and you get S.Wrigleyana. This hybrid clearly
shows influence from both of it's parents. Pitchers stand at about
a 45 degree angle, the tops being bright red with white fenestrations.
These plants will hold their form nicely throughout dormancy, making
it an attractive plant year round.
Like all sarracenia, this one will need a dormancy period of
3-5 months each year. Temps during dormancy should be cold but not
freezing.
Sarracenia X "Judith Hindle"
The colorful and beautifully patterned "Judith Hindle" is
a hybrid Sarracenia, who's parentage includes S.Flava, S. Leucophylla,
and S.Purpurea. It is a registered cultivar, and is only reproduced
through tissue culture and plant division, or leaf cuttings. They are
capable of growing to 18-24" or taller, and will turn spectacular
shades of red, pink and white when grown in full sun. These colors
will attract many unlucky insects to their doom.
These will do well in a potting mix of 60% peat moss and 40%
perlite, and will need plenty of water in the growing season. A dormancy
of minimum 3-4 months is required each season, after which the plant
may be ready for division or re-potting.
Sarracenia Alata:
One of the North American pitcher plants, these are native to
marshes and bogs, pinelands, and wet forest floors in the south eastern
USA. Sarracenia Alata forms tall upright pitchers, which are more
than capable of catching a variety of prey. S. Alata are prolific
growers, producing pitchers throughout the entire growing season.
Though there are certainly larger forms of sarracenia, this one will
be as deadly as any to the unwary insect. Flying and crawling insects
will find the nectar like secretions underneath the pitcher hood
to be irresistable, and if they take a wrong step, they will tumble
into the pitcher. Once inside, they will find that retreat is impossible,
due to short stiff hairs pointing downward. The inside of the pitchers
are also very slippery, even to insects with the best traction.
They
will prefer full to slightly filtered sun, and will grow best outdoors
in humid climates. They can be grown in terrariums as younger plants,
but within a few seasons they will outgrow most setups. A standard
mix of 60% peat moss and 40% perlite or white pumice will work great
as a planting medium. These plants can be divided each year in the
spring before active growth resumes.
Pitcher leaves of this variety can vary in color from pale yellow,
to all green, to green with red veins, to dark red varieties. Pale
yellow flowers form on tall stems in the early spring, usually before
pitcher growth begins. They can reach a height of 35" in nature,
or when grown in optimum climate such as a humid bright greenhouse.
They will require a dormancy period of at least 3 months at temps under
45 degrees, but not freezing. 38-40 degrees will do nicely.
Sarracenia Flava:
Sarracenia Flava is native to marshy and boggy areas in the southeastern
USA. This is a vigorous growing plant, and very showy in the spring,
growing Very large bright yellow blooms to lure in the victims. These
plants can get very tall, even in small pots. Mid summer their pitchers
can contain Many insects alive and dead. They will slow down growth
after mid summer, and require 3-5 months dormancy each year. They
can tolorate freezing temps, but not for extended periods. As container
plants, they like full bright sun, and at least 1" of water
in their tray all summer. These will do best outdoors in areas with
humidity over 50% and moderate temps.
Sarracenia Leucophylla var. "Tarnok":
These are mostly a typical S.Leucophylla, except that their magnificent
red blooms will grow double petals. These are some of the taller
of the Sarracenia, easily reaching heights of 3 feet or more. Leucophylla
are famous for their ability to gobble up even large bees and wasps.
These will grow long spear shaped leaves with red hues on the edges,
and the white topped pitchers can develop red veination in strong
light and high humidity. They will appreciate full sun, and good
clean water. They can be kept wet during the growing season, as with
a watering tray, but these are more prone to rotting if kept too
wet during dormancy. Mature plants can be divided each spring, or
transplanted into a larger pot.
Sarracenia Leucophylla
These are sometimes called the "white topped pitcher plant".
Sarracenia Leucophylla is native to boggy and marshy areas in the south
eastern USA. They are the tallest of the Sarracena family, easily reaching
heights of 4ft in nature. Large plants in cultivation will also grow
quite tall. Leucophylla will put up pitchers with their blooms each
spring, but the fall is when these plants really start to show off.
As most of the other Sarracenia will be slowing down for the season,
Leucophylla will rapidly start pushing up it's largest pitchers yet.
Pitchers are green with red highlighting, up to a red veined white
fenestration covered top. Some plants will have more red coloring than
others. Having such notable characteristics makes it an excellent choice
for hybridization.
Like all sarracenia, these will prefer full sun and being in
a tray of water during summer months. Keep them dryer during their
required winter dormancy of 3-5 months, with temps about 35-45 degrees.
These are also more prone to rotting if too wet in the spring so be
careful not to let them get too wet. Peat moss and perlite 50/50 makes
an ideal planting medium for all sarracenia and most all Carnivorous Plants.
Sarracenia Minor:
This is an odd form of Sarracenia that has a style all it's own.
Known as the "Hooded Pitcher Plant", Sarracenia Minor pitchers
form a slightly overhanging hood, which is coppery in color with
white fenestrations on the upper back side. These are native to swampier
areas of the far southeastern USA. In nature these plants can easily
reach over 3 ft in heigth, but in captivity they will usually reach
up to 12-18" in larger pot sizes. They can take on a comical
appearance, the hoods resembling mouths, clusters of pitchers can
look almost sociable. These will form woody rhizomes with a smooth
texture, new leaves can form anywhere on the rhizome. Keep these
in full sun, and nice and wet during the growing season, and dryer
during dormancy.
Like all sarracenia, this one will need a dormancy period of
3-5 months each year. Temps during dormancy should be cold but not
freezing.
Sarracenia Purpurea ssp. Purpurea
Sarracenia Purpurea is native to boggy and marshy areas east
of the Mississippi River. They form a rosette of ground hugging,
bulbous hooded pitchers. Purpurea pitchers are capable of catching
many crawling insects, and even snails and slugs. The pitchers fill
with water during rainy spells, and many captured insects will drown
before being digested. These plants can take lower temperatures than
most sarracenia, and as a result they hold their form nicely through
the winter. Pitchers can vary from yellow with red veins, pure green,
green with red veins, and some will turn deep shades of red.
Like all sarracenia, this one will need a dormancy period of
3-5 months each year. Temps during dormancy should be cold but not
freezing.
Sarracenia Psittacina:
Also known as the "Parrot Pitcher Plant", Sarracenia Psittacina
is native to the southeastern USA. They aren't much like other sarracenia,
looking more like a Cobra Lily. They form ground level rosettes of
short pitchers with bulbous ends. Their coloring is similar to that
seen in s.leucophylla, red topped veined pitchers with white fenestrations.
These love sun, and will do best as container plants in a tray of water
all summer, and will require a dormancy of minimum 3 months each year.
Sarracenia Rubra
Sarracenia Rubra is known as 'the Sweeet Trumpet,' because their
dark maroon blooms actually smell good which is rare among Sarracenia.
There are 5 subspecies to the Rubra family, some of which are still
debated among scientists who feel that some are actually species.
These are native to the southeastern USA, and are perennial carnivorous
plants found in boggy areas.
These are smaller in stature than the other upright species
of sarracenia, and will produce clumps of pitchers from mid
spring until
early fall. These will do best as container plants outdoors
in areas with humidity over 50%. They will appreciate full
sun all day, and
should be set in a tray of water at all times during the growing
season. They will require a dormancy period of 3-5 months
each year, with temps
cold but not freezing. They will not require as much light
during dormancy, and should be kept dryer as well.
Sarracenia X Catesbaei
This is a hybrid of the tall Sarracenia Flava, crossed with
the Sarracenia Purpurea which is a much shorter plant. These will
form pitchers
with wide open mouths, which will have red veining on the underside
of the lids, which continues down into the throat of the tubes.
These will grow tall red flowers in the spring that will easily
self pollinate,
or can be crossed with other Sarracenia for further complex hybrids.
These will do best as container plants outdoors in full sun all
day, and will appreciate being in a tray of water all summer long.
They
will observe dormancy in winter months, and will resume growth
in the spring.
Drosera Capillaris "Giant Form":
These are the giant form of d.capillaris, which will get a bit
larger than normal capillaris. The form is very similar to d.rotundifolia,
but these will cluster more and will grow longer leaves. Plants can
reach up to 2" across, and will grow up to 12 pink flowers on
each flower scape. These will flower through much of the summer time,
and seed can easily be collected from flower scapes when fully dried.
Keep these nice and damp and in bright light.
Drosera Spathulata:
These Sundews are known for growing clusters of plants that will
flower like mad. The mature plants will take on a more earthy
tone of green, with orange hues showing through their sticky dew
drops. They grow small spoon shaped leaves, and can grow white
or pink flowers depending on their geographic background. They
are quite widespread in nature, growing throughout tropical zones.
They require summer temps of 70-95 degrees, and can be kept at
these temperatures year round. They appreciate bright light, and
can live as windowsill plants in areas with higher humidity, but
avoid direct sunlight that might burn them. Keep them wet throughout
the growing season. These plants require no dormancy, making them
excellent terrarium plants.
Drosera Intermedia:
Drosera Intermedia forms a rosette of paddle shaped leaves,
ending in a pad covered with sticky red tentacles. Leaves
can grow up to 2" long. This plant will bloom throughout
the growing season, with up to 20 white flowers on each scape.
They are quite widespread throughout nature, occupying humid
marshy and boggy areas. They will usually catch smaller flying
insects such as soil and fungus gnats, but can also catch
larger prey. The tentacles will send captured insects to the
center of the trap pad, where they will be consumed. These
plants will form winter buds during dormancy, and will resume
growth each spring. They can be kept quite wet during the
growing season, and dryer during dormancy to avoid rotting.
During the winter they can survive freezing temperatures,
but not for long periods of time. Soil mixes can vary from
pure peat moss, to mixes ammended with perlite, pumice, sand,
or long fiber sphagnum moss.
Drosera Filiformis var. Tracyii:
These are Drosera Filiformis var Tracyii, which are a subspecies
of D.Filiformis. The Tracyii are much more stout than the
pure Filiformis. Leaves grow upright 4-12" like long
thick blades of grass, unrolling as they go. Their leaves
produce more dew than most Drosera. They are native to the
south eastern USA, and can occupy many low lying wetlands
through Florida, such as roadside ditches. These plants will
observe dormancy when temps dip lower than 40 degrees, and
will slow growth, focusing it's energy into the bud. Growth
will resume in the spring when temps get warmer.
They can be grown in a wide variety of peat based mixes, from
pure peat moss to long fiber sphagnum moss, or mixes ammended
with perlite or pumice. They will like to be wet during the
growing season, and dryer during dormancy to avoid rotting.
This plant can take on some crazy growth patterns, forming a
shock of white dew covered leaves catching whatever crosses
their path.
Drosera Capensis:
One of the easier sundews to grow, Drosera Capensis is also
a very beautiful plant. Long bright green leaves end in a
sticky pad, with red tentacles covered in digestive dew. They
are a tropical type of sundew native to Cape Province South
Africa. Bright pink flowers will form on many tall flower
scapes. These will self pollinate, and after the flower stems
fully dry out, you can shake hundreds of tiny black seeds
from them. These plants require no dormancy, but will die
back during colder months, resuming growth in the spring.
Prolonged temps under 40 degrees can potentially be harmful
to them.
This type of sundew can trap and digest larger insects than
you might expect. Their long sticky leaves will envelope their
prey, rolling downward to fully incapacitate and digest struggling
victims.
Darlingtonia Californica is one of the strangest carnivorous
plants that you can ever see. Commonly referred to as the "Cobra
Lily", the leaves of this plant take on a serpentine form
complete with a long forked-tongue like appendage. Pitchers
twist slightly and stand up tall, giving this plant a menacing
appearance. These plants are native to mountainous areas of
western Oregon, down through areas of north western California.
They grow in sphagnum moss bogs, and also near fresh water springs.
In nature their pitchers can reach a monstrous size of 40" or
taller, with heads the size of a softball. Hanging blood red
blooms form on tall, odd looking pale green stalks.
They are a pitcher plant utilizing a passive trapping mechanism,
the 'pitfall'. The bulbous tops of the pitchers have a small
opening underneath in front. Insects will land on the forked
'tongue' of the plant, and wander underneath following a scent
of nectar which leads to the opening. They will crawl inside
the top of the pitcher, which contains many small windows called
'fenestrations'. Light comes through these fenestrations, and
when insects are ready to leave, they will usually fly up toward
the light and hit the top of the inside of the pitcher, then
fall down into the neck where they will be digested.
Darlingtonia are a distant cousin of the Sarracenia. But, unlike
Sarracenia, Darlingtonia are monotypical, meaning they are the
only species of their genus.
These plants will require cooler soil temps than most Carnivorous
Plant's. They appreciate filtered light, but can grow in brighter
conditions.
Plants grown in strong light will be more compact with more
color, plants grown in less light will be greener but larger.
High humidity is a must for growing Cobra Lillies. These plants
will also prefer distilled water or rain water when available.
Plants can be kept quite wet during the growing season, and
drier during dormancy. Some growers will water their Darlingtonia
with ice water in the hotter months of summer, to help keep
the root system cool enough. A dormancy of 4-6 months is required
during winter months, during this time the previous year's pitchers
will slowly deteriorate and brown. Through the course of each
year these plants will produce plantlets on thick stolon roots.
These plantlets can be seperated in the spring and replanted.
These plants can be grown in terrariums, but must be kept cool.
Some growers will use a small pump to recirculate water over
their Cobra Lily plants, helping to keep fresh water available
to the root system. Keep them out of direct sunlight, and larger
pots will also help to keep their roots cool. Misting will also
be a plus.
Nepenthes 'Judith Finn':
This is a hybrid of 2 highland Nepenthes, N. Spathulata X N.
Veitchii. The ideal temperatures for this plant is 50-70 degrees,
but they can do just fine in higher temps when acclimated.
This is one type of highland Nepenthes that can do well in
lowland conditions, or temps 70-85 degrees. Nepenthes are
carnivorous pitcher plants which lure and trap insects, which
they digest in a pool of fluid. Both color and odor can lure
an insect to the pitcher rim or 'peristome', which is very
slippery to insects. If they crawl around too long, they will
likely fall into the pitcher and be consumed. In their native
habitat, many Nepenthes can reach heights over 50ft, vining
into the trees and dense brush. In captivity, they grow more
compact, and can be trained to live in mid sized terrariums.
If artificial lighting is used, a photoperiod of 14 hours
per day will do fine. In contrast to most carnivorous plants
which grow both pistilate and staminate flower parts, Nepenthes
are either male or female. Their pitchers have been used for
everything from storage to cooking pots and water containers,
and the digestive enzymes have been used medicinally for many
generations.
Nepenthes are native to tropical areas of (not limited to)
Indonesia, Malaysia, Madagascar, Thailand, the Phillipines,
and surrounding
tropical regions. Their habitats vary from limestone cliffs,
to sandy savannas, or swampy areas where they may be submerged
in wet seasons.
Even if your local climate seems within the proper requirements,
they will do best in a terrarium with very high humidity and
still air. Outdoor breezes can disturb the ambient humidity,
and can cause Nepenthes to wilt rather fast. Full sun or overly
bright lighting can burn Nepenthes that have not been exposed
to it slowly.
When Nepenthes get too tall, you can take cuttings from the
upper stem and they will root quite easily. Start the cut
3 nodes down, and put the cutting into a small pot of growing
medium. Keep it damp, and in a terrarium or humid enclosure
with bright light. Within 2 months or so it will root and
begin
to grow. Rooted cuttings can grow quite fast and produce full
pitchers much faster than seed grown or tissue cultured plants.
Nepenthes Rafflesiana:
N.Rafflesiana is a lowland Nepenthes that performs nicely in
warm humid terrariums, or hot greenhouses. These will produce
pitchers 3-5" tall, with different markings depending
on the variety of species. These will do nicely in filtered
light or under 50% shade cloth. Keep Nepenthes just damp,
never too wet and certainly never let them dry out. Plants
in cultivation also seem to prefer still air.
Pinguicula Primuliflora:
These carnivorous plants are native to the southern United States.
They grow long sticky leaves up to 3.5 inches, and will commonly
create 'baby plants' at each leaf tip. During the spring and
summer they will grow beautiful violet flowers on a very sticky
bloom stalk. They prefer indirect or filtered light, and can
do quite nicely in shaded terrarium corners.
These plants will require a dormancy each winter with temperatures
between 35 and 50 degrees. During this time, the plant will
remain green, but will slow down growth substantially. Small
winter buds may form that will grow into many small plants in
the spring.
Pinguicula Moranensis:
These Pinguicula can get quite large compared to most, rosettes
can be more than 6 inches across. They are a Mexican Butterwort
that grows in wet limestone cliff areas. They are prolific
in flowering, putting up many deep pink blooms. Their carnivorous
leaves are a sticky mess for insects to encounter, small flying
insects and soil gnats will be easy victims.
Keep this plant in a shallow tray of water at all times. These
plants will do great in terrariums, and can also be grown on
windowsills in areas with higher humidity. Avoid hot sun or
prolonged high temps, this one will prefer things a bit cooler.
Though no dormancy is required, they sometimes will die back
in colder temps, putting all of their energy into a small central
bud. Growth will resume in the spring, or when you provide it
with warmer temps such as with a terrarium.
