Carnivorous Plant Care Guide

We provide a detailed care guide for each plant on our website, ensuring you have everything you need to grow these fascinating plants successfully. Our goal is to support your success in cultivating them. Click the links below to explore each variety of carnivorous plants more.

Venus flytraps

  • Year 1: Tiny seedlings emerge, with small leaves and traps no larger than 1-2mm. The plant remains about the size of a penny.
  • Year 2: After dormancy, traps grow up to 3/8 inch, and the plant reaches about an inch across.
  • Year 3: Traps grow to 1/2 inch, capable of catching larger prey. The plant reaches a couple of inches and may flower.
  • Years 4-6: The plant matures, flowers annually, and can self-pollinate and produce seeds. It may also start to split and can be repotted.

Key Points to Avoid:

  1. Excessive Heat: Keep indoor plants, especially those in terrariums, out of direct, hot sunlight to prevent overheating.

  2. Low Humidity: Maintain humidity levels above 50%. If you live in a dry climate, consider using a terrarium or a humid enclosure to provide the necessary environment.

  3. Overwatering: Be mindful of the balance between water and light. Plants that are too wet may rot, especially if they aren’t receiving adequate light. In summer, outdoor Venus Flytraps can be kept very wet, but indoor plants will require less water—just ensure they never dry out completely.

  4. Excessive Handling: Avoid touching the plants too much. Although they may seem like interactive pets, handling can stress the plant.

Signs of Stress and Recovery:

Venus Flytraps showing signs of stress are not necessarily beyond saving. These plants grow from bulbs, which store significant energy. Even if leaves blacken and die, as long as the bulb remains healthy (creamy white in color), the plant can regenerate. If your plant is struggling, consider un-potting it to check for fungus or rot. If necessary, dust the bulb with fungicide and replant it. Even if most of the plant has died back, the bulb can still produce new growth. Some plants may experience significant dieback while adjusting to new conditions—don’t give up on your Venus Flytrap until you’re certain the bulb has turned completely mushy. Many plants have made remarkable recoveries from such situations.

 

Long-Term Growth (Year 7-8 and Beyond):

Venus Flytraps can live indefinitely if kept in proper conditions. As they mature, they may form large bulbs, sometimes the size of a golf ball or larger, producing traps over an inch long on bigger leaves. These plants may also divide and multiply, yielding many large bulbs each year.

Sundews

These are the giant forms of d.capillaris, which will get larger than normal capillaries. The form is similar to Drosera rotundifolia, but these will cluster more and grow longer leaves. Plants can reach up to 2" across and will grow up to 12 pink flowers on each flower scape. These will flower through much of the summertime, and seeds can easily be collected from flower scapes when thoroughly dried. Keep these nice and damp and in bright light.

These Sundews are known for growing clusters of plants that will flower like mad. The mature plants will take on a more earthy tone of green, with orange hues showing through their sticky dew drops. They grow small spoon-shaped leaves and can produce white or pink flowers depending on their geographic background. They are quite widespread, growing throughout tropical zones. They require summer temps of 70-95 degrees Fahrenheit and can be kept at these temperatures year round. They appreciate bright light and can live as windowsill plants in areas with higher humidity but avoid direct sunlight that might burn them. Keep them wet throughout the growing season. These plants require no dormancy, making them excellent terrarium plants.

Drosera Intermedia forms a rosette of paddle-shaped leaves, ending in a pad covered with sticky red tentacles. The leaves, which can grow up to 2" long, are a sight to behold. This plant will bloom throughout the growing season, with up to 20 white flowers on each scape, adding a touch of elegance to its carnivorous nature. They are quite widespread throughout nature, occupying humid marshy and boggy areas. They will usually catch smaller flying insects such as soil and fungus gnats, but can also catch larger prey. The tentacles will send captured insects to the center of the trap pad, where they will be consumed. These plants will form winter buds during dormancy, and will resume growth each spring. They can be kept wet during the growing season and dryer during dormancy to avoid rotting. 

 

During the winter, they can survive freezing temperatures, but not for long periods of time. Soil mixes can vary from pure peat moss to mixes amended with perlite, pumice, sand, or long-fiber sphagnum moss.

These are Drosera Filiformis var Tracyii, a subspecies of D. Filiformis. The Tracyii are much more stout than the pure Filiformis. Leaves grow upright 4-12" like long, thick blades of grass, unrolling as they go. Their leaves produce more dew than most Drosera. They are native to the southeastern USA and can occupy many low-lying wetlands throughout Florida, such as roadside ditches. These plants will observe dormancy when temps dip lower than 40 degrees Fahrenheit and will slow growth, focusing its energy into the bud. Growth will resume in the spring when temps get warmer.

 

They can be grown in a wide variety of peat based mixes, from pure peat moss to long fiber sphagnum moss, or mixes ammended with perlite or pumice. Their adaptability makes them a confident choice for any gardener. They will like to be wet during the growing season, and dryer during dormancy to avoid rotting.

 

This plant can take on some crazy growth patterns, forming a shock of white dew-covered leaves that catch whatever crosses their path.

Drosera Capensis is also a lovely plant, one of the easier sundews to grow. Long, bright green leaves end in a sticky pad, with red tentacles covered in digestive dew. They are a tropical sundew native to Cape Province, South Africa. Bright pink flowers will form on many tall flowerscapes. These will self-pollinate; after the flower stems fully dry out, you can shake hundreds of tiny black seeds from them. These plants require no dormancy but will die back during colder months, resuming growth in the spring. Prolonged temps under 40 degrees could be harmful to them.

 

Drosera Capensis, in particular, has a unique feeding behavior that may surprise you. It can trap and digest larger insects than you might expect. Its long, sticky leaves act as a deadly trap, enveloping its prey and rolling downward to fully incapacitate and digest struggling victims. This fascinating aspect of the plant adds to its allure and makes it a captivating addition to any collection.

Nepenthes

Nepenthes are carnivorous pitcher plants that lure and trap insects, which they digest in a pool of fluid. Both color and odor can lure an insect to the pitcher rim or 'peristome,' which is very slippery to insects. If they crawl around too long, they will likely fall into the pitcher and be consumed. In their native habitat, many Nepenthes can reach heights over 50 feet, vining into the trees and dense brush. In captivity, they grow more compact, and can be trained to live in mid sized terrariums. If artificial lighting is used, a photoperiod of 14 hours per day will do fine. In contrast to most carnivorous plants which grow both pistilate and staminate flower parts, Nepenthes are either male or female. Their pitchers have been used for everything from storage to cooking pots and water containers, and the digestive enzymes have been used medicinally for many generations.


Nepenthes are native to tropical areas of (not limited to) Indonesia, Malaysia, Madagascar, Thailand, the Philippines, and surrounding tropical regions. Their habitats vary from limestone cliffs to sandy savannas or swampy areas where they may be submerged in wet seasons.


Providing the right conditions for Nepenthes plants is crucial for their well-being and growth. Even if your local climate seems within the proper requirements, they will do best in a terrarium with very high humidity and still air. Outdoor breezes can disturb the ambient humidity, and can cause Nepenthes to wilt rather fast. Full sun or overly bright lighting can slowly burn Nepenthes not exposed to it. By understanding and meeting the specific needs of Nepenthes plants, you can ensure their health and vitality, fostering a sense of responsibility and commitment in your cultivation journey.


When Nepenthes get too tall, you can take cuttings from the upper stem, and they will root quite easily. Start the cut three nodes down, and put the cutting into a small pot of growing medium. Keep it damp and in a terrarium or humid enclosure with bright light. Within two months or so, it will root and begin to grow. Rooted cuttings can grow quickly and produce full pitchers much faster than seed-grown or tissue-cultured plants.

Sarracenias

This is a very hardy, complex hybrid Sarracenia made up of 3 different upright species. These will grow tall green pitchers with a wavy lid and light red veining. There will be many pitchers each year compared to pure leucophylla or Flava. These can catch larger giant bees and wasps, and smaller insects will not stand a chance. These are excellent beginner Sarracenia, easily surviving dormancy and ready for division each spring. These will do best as container plants outdoors in areas with humidity over 50%. They will appreciate full sun all day and should be set in a tray of water at all times during the growing season. They will require a dormancy period of 3-5 months each year, with temps cold but not freezing. They will not need as much light during dormancy and should be kept dryer.

This is a hybrid of the endangered S. Oreophila, a strong spring performer, and S. Alata, which starts later in the spring and then grows pitchers all season long. The result is a very hardy plant, mostly resembling S. Alata but much more stout and hardy. These will produce many more sizeable plant divisions than S. Alata will. They will grow tall green pitchers with light veining that may intensify with more substantial light. These are very deadly to smaller-sized insects such as bees and flies.

 

For optimal growth, these hybrids thrive as container plants in outdoor settings with humidity levels exceeding 50%. They prefer full sun exposure throughout the day and should be placed in a water-filled tray during the growing season. A yearly dormancy period of 3-5 months, with cold but not freezing temperatures, is necessary. During dormancy, they require less light and should be kept drier. 

This is a complex hybrid of taller and more ground-hugging sarracenia species. Sarracenia Leucophylla can grow very tall green/white-topped pitchers well over 3 feet, while the cultivar Sarracenia Willissi is a mix of shorter species with darker red coloring. This hybrid results in a tall but slightly curved pitcher, with bright shades of red that turn to deep plum and bright pink fenestrations.


These unique plants thrive best when they are cared for in a container outdoors, in an environment with a humidity level of over 50%. Your attention to this detail will ensure their well-being. They bask in full sun all day, and should be placed in a tray of water throughout the growing season. They also require a dormancy period of 3-5 months each year, with temperatures that are cold but not freezing. During this time, they need less light and should be kept drier until signs of new growth appear, at which point you can gradually increase their water intake as the days get longer and warmer.

Part of the appeal of growing Sarracenia is the variety of forms within the different species. S. Leucophylla, for instance, can be over 3 feet tall with large white-topped open pitchers, while S. Psittacina is a smaller ground-hugging plant with not much room to catch an insect. Cross the two, and you get S.Wrigleyana. This hybrid clearly shows influence from both of its parents. Pitchers stand at about a 45-degree angle, the tops being bright red with white fenestrations. These plants will hold their form nicely throughout dormancy, making them attractive year-round.

Like all Sarracenia, this one will need a dormancy period of 3-5 months each year. During dormancy, temperatures should be cold but not freezing.

The colorful and beautifully patterned "Judith Hindle" is a hybrid Sarracenia whose parentage includes S. Flava, S. Leucophylla, and S. purpurea. It is a registered cultivar and is only reproduced through tissue culture, plant division, or leaf cuttings. When grown in full sun, it can grow to 18-24" or taller and will turn spectacular shades of red, pink, and white. These colors will attract many unlucky insects to their doom. 

 

These will do well in a potting mix of 60% peat moss and 40% perlite and will need plenty of water in the growing season. Each season, a dormancy of at least 3-4 months is required, after which the plant may be ready for division or re-potting.

One of the North American pitcher plants is native to marshes and bogs, pinelands, and wet forest floors in the southeastern USA. Sarracenia Alata forms tall upright pitchers, which are more than capable of catching various prey. S. Alata are prolific growers, producing pitchers throughout the entire growing season. Though there are larger forms of sarracenia, this one will be as deadly as any to the unwary insect. Flying and crawling insects will find the nectar-like secretions underneath the pitcher hood to be irresistible, and if they take a wrong step, they will tumble into the pitcher. Once inside, they will find that retreat is impossible due to short, stiff hairs pointing downward. The inside of the pitchers is also very slippery, even to insects with the best traction.

 

Sarracenia Alata pitcher plants thrive in full to slightly filtered sun, making them ideal for outdoor growth in humid climates. While they can be initially grown in terrariums, they will eventually outgrow most setups. A planting medium of 60% peat moss and 40% perlite or white pumice is recommended. These plants can be divided each year in the spring before active growth resumes, ensuring their healthy development. 

 

Pitcher leaves of this variety can vary in color from pale yellow to all green, green with red veins, and dark red varieties. Pale yellow flowers form on tall stems in the early spring, usually before pitcher growth begins. They can reach a height of 35" in nature or when grown in an optimum climate, such as a humid, bright greenhouse. They will require a dormancy period of at least three months at temperatures under 45 degrees but not freezing. 38-40 degrees will do nicely

Sarracenia Flava is native to marshy and boggy areas in the southeastern USA. This vigorous growing plant is very showy in the spring, growing huge bright yellow blooms to lure in the victims. These plants can get very tall, even in small pots. Mid-summer, their pitchers can contain many insects, both alive and dead. They will slow down growth after mid-summer and require 3-5 months of dormancy each year. They can tolerate freezing temps, but not for extended periods. As container plants, they like full bright sun and at least 1" of water in their tray all summer. These will do best outdoors in areas with humidity over 50% and moderate temps.

These are typical S.Leucophylla, except their magnificent red blooms will grow double petals. These are some of the taller Sarracenia, quickly reaching heights of 3 feet or more. Leucophylla are famous for their ability to gobble up even giant bees and wasps. These will grow long spear-shaped leaves with red hues on the edges, and the white-topped pitchers can develop red venation in intense light and high humidity. They will appreciate the full sun and clean water. They can be kept wet during the growing season, as with a watering tray, but these are more prone to rotting if kept too wet during dormancy. Mature plants can be divided each spring or transplanted into a larger pot.

These are sometimes called the "white-topped pitcher plant". Sarracenia Leucophylla is native to boggy and marshy areas in the southeastern USA. They are the tallest of the Sarracena family, quickly reaching heights of 4ft in nature. Large plants in cultivation will also grow quite tall. Leucophylla will put up pitchers with their blooms each spring, but these plants start to show off in the fall. As most of the other Sarracenia will be slowing down for the season, Leucophylla will rapidly begin pushing up its largest pitchers. Pitchers are green with red highlighting, up to a red-veined white fenestration-covered top. Some plants will have more red coloring than others. Having such notable characteristics makes it an excellent choice for hybridization.

Like all Sarracenia, Sarracenia Leucophylla thrives in full sun and benefits from being in a tray of water during the summer months. However, it's important to keep them drier during their required winter dormancy of 3-5 months, with temperatures about 35-45 degrees. These plants are more prone to rotting if they become too wet in the spring, so it's crucial to avoid overwatering. A planting medium of peat moss and perlite in a 50/50 ratio is ideal for all Sarracenia and most carnivorous plants.
This is a truly unique form of Sarracenia, with a style that sets it apart. Known as the "Hooded Pitcher Plant", Sarracenia Minor pitchers form a distinctively overhanging hood, which is coppery in color with white fenestrations on the upper back side. These are native to swampier areas of the far southeastern USA. In nature, these plants can easily reach over 3 ft in height, but in captivity, they will usually reach up to 12-18" in larger pot sizes. They can take on a comical appearance, the hoods resembling mouths, and clusters of pitchers can look almost sociable. These will form woody rhizomes with a smooth texture, new leaves can form anywhere on the rhizome. Keep these in full sun, and nice and wet during the growing season, and dryer during dormancy. Like all Sarracenia, this one will need a dormancy period of 3-5 months each year. During dormancy, temperatures should be cold but not freezing.

Sarracenia Purpurea, native to boggy and marshy areas east of the Mississippi River, forms a rosette of ground-hugging, bulbous hooded pitchers. These pitchers, impressive in their ability to catch a wide variety of crawling insects, snails, and slugs, fill with water during rainy spells. Unfortunately, the captured insects meet their end by drowning before being digested. This plant's ability to withstand lower temperatures than most sarracenia, maintaining its form through the winter, is truly fascinating. The pitchers, a sight to behold, can vary from yellow with red veins, pure green, green with red veins, to deep shades of red.

 

Like all sarracenia, this one will need a dormancy period of 3-5 months each year. During dormancy, temperatures should be cold but not freezing.

Also known as the "Parrot Pitcher Plant," Sarracenia psittacina is native to the southeastern USA. They aren't much like other sarracenia, but they look more like Cobra Lily. They form ground-level rosettes of short pitchers with bulbous ends. Their coloring is similar to that seen in s.leucophylla, red-topped veined pitchers with white fenestrations. These love the sun and will do best as container plants in a tray of water all summer, and will require a dormancy of a minimum of 3 months each year

Sarracenia Rubra is known as 'the Sweet Trumpet' because its dark maroon blooms actually smell good, which is rare among Sarracenia. The Rubra family has 5 subspecies, some of which are still debated among scientists who feel that some are actually species. These perennial carnivorous plants are native to the southeastern USA and found in boggy areas.

 

These are smaller in stature than the other upright species of Sarracenia and will produce clumps of pitchers from mid-spring until early fall. These will do best as container plants outdoors in areas with humidity over 50%. They will appreciate full sun all day and should be set in a tray of water at all times during the growing season. They will require a dormancy period of 3-5 months each year, with temps cold but not freezing. They will not need as much light during dormancy and should be kept drier.

Imagine a hybrid of the towering Sarracenia Flava and the petite Sarracenia Purpurea, a blend of two distinct plant personalities. This unique creation will boast pitchers with wide open mouths, adorned with striking red veining on the underside of the lids, which gracefully extends into the throat of the tubes. In the spring, these hybrids will bloom with tall, vibrant red flowers, a sight to behold. They are self-pollinating, but the possibility of crossing them with other Sarracenia for even more intricate hybrids is an exciting prospect.

 

These hybrids thrive best as container plants outdoors, basking in full sun all day. They will flourish when placed in a tray of water throughout the summer. In the winter months, they will enter a period of dormancy, only to awaken and resume growth in the spring.

Cobra lily

Darlingtonia Californica is one of the strangest carnivorous plants you can see. They are commonly referred to as the "Cobra Lily"; the leaves of this plant take on a serpentine form complete with a long forked-tongue-like appendage. Pitchers twist slightly and stand tall, giving this plant a menacing appearance. These plants are native to mountainous areas of western Oregon and down through areas of northwestern California. They grow in sphagnum moss bogs and also near freshwater springs. In nature, their pitchers can reach a monstrous size of 40" or taller, with heads the size of a softball. Hanging blood-red blooms form on tall, odd-looking pale green stalks. 

 

They are pitcher plants utilizing a passive trapping mechanism, the 'pitfall.' The bulbous tops of the pitchers have a small opening underneath in front. Insects will land on the forked 'tongue' of the plant and wander underneath, following a scent of nectar, which leads to the opening. They will crawl inside the top of the pitcher, which contains many small windows called 'fenestrations.' Light comes through these fenestrations, and when insects are ready to leave, they will usually fly up toward the light and hit the top of the inside of the pitcher, then fall into the neck, where they will be digested. 

 

Darlingtonia is a distant cousin of Sarracenia. But unlike Sarracenia, Darlingtonia is monotypic, meaning it is the only species of its genus.

 

These plants will require cooler soil temps than most Carnivorous plants. They appreciate filtered light but can grow in brighter conditions. Plants grown in intense light will be more compact with more color, and plants grown in less light will be greener but larger. High humidity is a must for increasing Cobra Lillies. These plants will also prefer distilled water or rainwater when available. Plants can be kept quite wet during the growing season and drier during dormancy. Some growers will water their Darlingtonia with ice water in the hotter months of summer to help keep the root system cool enough. A dormancy of 4-6 months is required during winter; during this time, the previous year's pitchers will slowly deteriorate and brown. Through the course of each year, these plants will produce plantlets on thick stolon roots. These plantlets can be separated in the spring and replanted.

 

These plants can be grown in terrariums but must be kept cool. Some growers will use a small pump to recirculate water over their Cobra Lily plants, helping to keep fresh water available to the root system. Keep them out of direct sunlight; larger pots will also help keep their roots cool. Misting will also be a plus.

Butterworts

These carnivorous plants, native to the southern United States, grow long sticky leaves up to 3.5 inches. They often create 'baby plants' at each leaf tip, adding to their unique charm. In the spring and summer, they bloom stunning violet flowers on a very sticky stalk. They thrive in indirect or filtered light and can be a beautiful addition to shaded terrarium corners.


These plants require dormancy each winter, with temperatures between 35 and 50 degrees. During this time, the plant remains green but slows down growth substantially. Small winter buds may form that will grow into many small plants in the spring.

These Pinguicula can get quite large compared to most; rosettes can be more than 6 inches across. They are a Mexican Butterwort that grows in wet limestone cliff areas. They are prolific in flowering, putting up many deep pink blooms. Their carnivorous leaves are a sticky mess for insects to encounter; tiny flying insects and soil gnats will be easy victims.


Keep this plant in a shallow tray of water at all times. These plants will do great in terrariums, and can also be grown on windowsills in areas with higher humidity. Avoid hot sun or prolonged high temps, this one will prefer things a bit cooler. Though no dormancy is required, they sometimes will die back in colder temps, putting all of their energy into a small central bud. Growth will resume in the spring, or when you provide it with warmer temps such as with a terrarium. The adaptability of the Pinguicula plant is truly inspiring, making it a perfect addition to your plant collection.

Seeds

When you receive your Venus flytrap seeds, be careful not to lose them since they are so small. When preparing to plant them, place the seeds in a secure place until you are ready to plant them.

 

Planting Medium

To germinate your Venus flytrap seeds, sprinkle them on a medium of shredded sphagnum peat moss. Your planting mix may include some vermiculite or perlite. A good ratio is 80% shredded sphagnum moss to 20% vermiculite or perlite. Alternatively, you can use peat pellets, like "Jiffy Peat Pellets," which can be purchased online or at a garden center.

 

Sow the seeds very thinly on the medium so that once they germinate, they can grow for an entire season without getting overcrowded or needing to be transplanted. The reason that you should sow the seeds thinly is that you want larger plants, not small plants that are the result of overcrowded conditions. Additionally, overcrowding Venus flytraps may result in a higher incidence of fungus diseases, which is extremely common in crowded seedlings. After sowing the seeds thinly, a skinny layer of the planting medium may be used to cover them, but this is unnecessary.

 

Light

After you sow the seeds, expose the planting tray or pot containing your Venus flytrap seeds to as much light as possible. In the case of germinating seeds, more light is always better than less light. Bright light in the form of natural or artificial light is essential for successfully germinating your seeds. Regarding light, it must be said that while natural sunlight will result in the geminating of many seeds, artificial light in fluorescent bulbs has a definite advantage. The main benefit is, of course, the increased time you can expose the seeds to light. If you use fluorescent lights to germinate your Venus flytrap seeds, be sure to have them turned on from 12-16 hours per day. Using a timer with your fluorescent lights will make the whole process that much easier by putting this project on "auto-pilot." A common question we frequently ask is, "How far should we place the lights above the seedling tray or pots?" The answer is simple, as close as possible. The fact is, the closer the fluorescent lights are to the seeds, and eventually the seedling, the more usable the light becomes. Therefore, we recommend placing the lights 2 – 3 inches above the seedling tray or pots.

 

Humidity and Water

As important as light is to the germination of the Venus flytrap seeds, nothing will happen if you do not provide the right amount of water and humidity. You must ensure the planting medium is moist to the touch but not sopping wet like a water-logged sponge. Also, the seedlings will germinate better in an environment with high humidity. Increasing the humidity can be as simple as placing "saran wrap" style plastic wrap over the seedling tray or pots, or for a more sophisticated setup, using one of those commercially available seed starting kits, which typically include a plastic dome. Many of you may already be familiar with these seed starting kits, including a thick plastic tray, peat pellets, and a clear plastic dome to keep the humidity from escaping. Another important note regarding water is using the right kind of water. By the right type, we mean anything but tap water. Most tap water contains far too many chemicals and minerals (salts) that will kill your Venus flytraps in the long run. Therefore, we highly recommend using either spring water, distilled water, or, if you have access to it, rainwater.

 

Temperature

While a mature Venus flytrap can tolerate a wide range of temperatures throughout the growing season, germination of the seedlings is sped up by maintaining a temperature range of 80-85°F (26.7-29.5°C). Most gardeners know that seeds do better in a warm environment, so many serious hobbyists and commercial growers use heat coils or heat pads to keep the seeds warm. This may only be necessary during certain times of the year, such as when starting your seeds in the winter. If you are doing everything correctly, such as providing 12-16 hours of fluorescent light per day, have given the seeds just the right amount of water and humidity, and yet they still will not germinate—then it might be time that you invested in a heat mat that can be placed under the seedling tray or pots. A heat mat provides a consistent and gentle heat source, which can significantly improve the germination rate of your Venus flytrap seeds, especially in cooler conditions.

 

Conclusion

When the seedlings have at least four leaves, they can be transplanted. If you are growing more than one seedling in a pot or tray, plant them at least 1 inch apart to avoid overcrowding. Also, please remember that you must be patient throughout this process. Venus flytrap seedlings can take several years to become large and mature plants. To those of you who embark on growing Venus flytraps from seeds, you will undoubtedly find this project a satisfying endeavor, and the reward of seeing your plants grow will be truly fulfilling.
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